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- #NISSAN DATASCAN II CRACK HOW TO#
- #NISSAN DATASCAN II CRACK GENERATOR#
- #NISSAN DATASCAN II CRACK MOD#
#NISSAN DATASCAN II CRACK MOD#
Although I digress, I don't get how or why the resistor mod works, but others say it does and I don't need that argument with Brent. If it fails, you get either P328 or P327 (low voltage). When the engine knocks, it increases the voltage and you get an error code P328.
#NISSAN DATASCAN II CRACK GENERATOR#
It's a piezo electric generator (think speaker in reverse) and generates voltage through vibration from the engine. The knock sensor sends voltage to the ECU, it's cold resistance is 500 - 600ohms, but it sends about 2.5 volts to the ESU at idle. This is also why I don't get why the resister mod works. The two terminals are to check the resistance of the knock sensor, but only one sends voltage to the ECU. There are two terminal that come out of the knock sensor With the Maxima harness, there is only one wire coming from the connector, but two to the harness. The shielded ground is a gray wire just below on the right (you can't really see it in the picture). In this picture I have turned the wiring connector so the wire is now on the top right. I have cut and pulled back the loom material. The wire which sends voltage from the knock senor to the ECU is the off-white one, it's on the bottom right of the plug that pulls out of where it is mounted on the valve cover. There are a lot of wires in this connector. There are two connectors mounted there, a gray one on the right (left in the picture) and a green one on the left of the vehicle (right facing in the picture). The connector on the top of the passenger side valve cover, toward the front. Mine did not match up with my ESM so I had to trace wires, but the location is the same for all. It's the same location on all first gens, but the wires are different colors. It also has to be mounted solidly on the main part of the motor. The knock sensor is 3/4 thick, so wherever you mount it, the bolt has to be that much longer. I'm not sure about the NA aspirated engine, but if I check, I bet it's about the same. I'll get into that later.ฤก 2" long (50mm), 8mm, 1.25mm thread bolt - This is for the SC version. The one I had didn't work, so I made my own with a few pieces of wire and small connectors for less than a buck at Radio Shack. Wiring harness: Maxima Harness Part #22060-7B000 - Note here.
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If you get something else for cheap, it may be worth a try. I know the Subaru part looks just like it so a lot of them may be similar. Nissan Knock sensor: Part # 24079-31U01 - by the way, a lot of them are the same. Now that I have this worked out, it can be done in less than an hour once you have all the parts. So, at that rate you are coming close to 1K at the dealer, or a long day on your own. It took me about ten hours and the dealer says that it's a six hour job.
#NISSAN DATASCAN II CRACK HOW TO#
Ok, I could do a how to on the stock knock sensor replacement.